Tuscanyby car

Eight days: the Renaissance in Florence, medieval Siena, and the Val d’Orcia hills with cypresses, wine cellars and a village square full of hot water.

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Italy · 8 days

Three days where the Renaissance started: the cathedral, the Uffizi, bridges over the Arno and hills that look down on all of it.

Day by day

Day 1 · 7 placesLanding and a first evening above the Arno
airport → center, 20 minutes; pick up the car right away
  • Palazzo Vecchio
    City hall since 1299, and still the mayor’s office. The Hall of the Five Hundred was the largest room in Italy of its day, and a lost Leonardo may sit behind Vasari’s frescoes. The tower is a separate climb.
  • Piazzale Michelangelo
    A terrace on the hill where Florence appears whole — dome, bridges and the hills behind them. Half the city comes up here for the sunset.
  • Aeroporto di Firenze-Peretola (FLR)
    This is where you land and where you pick up the car. Twenty minutes to the center — though you cannot drive into it.
  • Basilica di Santa Maria Novella
    The first thing you see off the train: a marble facade in green and white stripes right across from the station. Inside are Ghirlandaio frescoes and Giotto’s crucifix, with a third of the crowd the cathedral gets.
  • Piazza della Signoria
    The city’s outdoor living room: a copy of the David where the original stood, a loggia full of statues, and cafés where a coffee costs what dinner should.
  • Ponte Vecchio
    The only bridge in Florence the war spared: goldsmiths have worked on it since the 1500s, and the Medici corridor runs across the top.
Day 2 · 5 placesFlorence: the dome, the David, the Uffizi
all day on foot, everything within fifteen minutes
  • Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore
    Brunelleschi’s dome, still not fully explained: laid without scaffolding, in two shells. It is 463 steps up and a separate timed ticket.
  • Galleria degli Uffizi
    The Renaissance room by room: Botticelli, Leonardo, Caravaggio. You cannot do it all at once — pick two or three rooms and the corridor over the Arno.
  • Galleria dell’Accademia
    People come for one thing: the real David, five meters of marble. On the way to him stand the unfinished Prisoners, figures climbing out of the block.
  • Battistero di San Giovanni
    The thousand-year-old octagon facing the cathedral. Its east doors — Ghiberti’s “Gates of Paradise” — are where the Renaissance started; the square has the copy, the originals are in the cathedral museum.
  • Mercato Centrale
    Butchers and cheese stalls downstairs since 1874, a food hall upstairs until midnight. This is where you eat lampredotto, the tripe sandwich Florence runs on.
Day 3 · 4 placesChianti by car: Greve and the Brolio castle
~50 miles of hills on the SR222, the “Chiantigiana”
  • Castello di Brolio
    The Ricasoli castle, where the formula for Chianti wine was written in 1872. A garden above the vineyards, a cellar below, tastings by appointment.
  • Castellina in Chianti
    A hill town with a fortress and Via delle Volte — a covered medieval street running inside the town wall, with the hills showing through its windows. Wine cellars open off it.
  • Panzano in Chianti
    A village on a ridge that people drive to for one shop: the butcher Dario Cecchini recites Dante over the counter and serves lunch in the back. Vineyards drop away on both sides.
  • Greve in Chianti
    The capital of Chianti, with an arcaded triangular square and a butcher shop that has been there two hundred years. The wine road starts here.
Day 4 · 3 placesDrive to Siena through San Gimignano
Florence → San Gimignano → Siena, ~70 miles
  • San Gimignano
    A town with fourteen towers — a medieval Manhattan, where families competed on height until it was banned. The gelato on the square has twice won the world championship.
  • Piazza del Campo
    A shell of red brick tilted toward the town hall, and people sitting straight on the stone. Twice a year horses run around its edge for the Palio.
  • Monteriggioni
    A round fortress with fourteen towers, intact since the 1200s — Dante compared those towers to giants. Twenty minutes to walk the walls; inside there is one square and two streets.
Day 5 · 5 placesAll of Siena: the Campo and the striped cathedral
the whole day inside the walls
  • Torre del Mangia
    The town hall tower, a hundred meters up: four hundred steps and all of Tuscany turning around you. They let thirty people up at a time.
  • Duomo di Siena
    A black-and-white striped cathedral like nowhere else, with a floor of fifty-six marble pictures — uncovered in full only in autumn.
  • Facciatone · Museo dell’Opera
    Siena started building a cathedral four times the size and never finished: a bare facade wall is all that stands. Stairs inside it go to the top, and that is the best view in town.
  • Santa Maria della Scala
    The hospital across from the cathedral, in service for nine hundred years and now a museum four floors deep. In the Pilgrim’s Hall the frescoes show how they treated the sick and took in foundlings — secular 15th-century painting, which is rare.
  • Basilica di San Domenico
    A stern brick church with no façade, holding the head of Saint Catherine of Siena. The best view of the cathedral is from here, across the ravine.
Day 6 · 4 placesInto the Val d’Orcia: Pienza, cypresses, a hot square
Siena → Pienza → Montalcino, ~45 miles of hills
  • Pienza
    The town Pope Pius II rebuilt as an “ideal city” in three years. From the lane along the cliff the whole valley opens up, and the shops sell pecorino.
  • Podere Belvedere
    The hill with the farmhouse and the cypress drive that people come to the Val d’Orcia for: waves of fields to the horizon. Shot from the road, best at dawn or the hour before sunset.
  • Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta
    The white chapel among cypresses that ends up on every postcard of Tuscany. You cannot walk to it — the field is private; people look and shoot from the road.
  • Bagno Vignoni
    A village whose main square is a pool of steaming water, running since Roman times. You cannot swim in it, but you can in the free cascades below.
Day 7 · 3 placesMontalcino, the abbey, and Montepulciano
~40 miles, three stops across the hills
  • Montalcino
    A fortress on a hill and Italy’s great red wine, Brunello. There is a wine bar inside the fortress itself: you drink your glass on the wall, looking at the hills.
  • Abbazia di Sant’Antimo
    A 12th-century Romanesque abbey standing alone in a field of olives. Pale stone inside and not one unnecessary decoration.
  • Montepulciano
    A town along a ridge, all Renaissance palaces with wine cellars underneath them. This is where Vino Nobile is made — and where they filmed New Moon.
Day 8 · 2 placesBack to Florence and the flight home
Val d’Orcia → Florence airport, ~90 miles, 2 hours
  • Basilica di Santa Croce
    A church that became a pantheon: Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli are buried here. In the courtyard stands the Pazzi Chapel, early Renaissance at its purest.
  • Museo Nazionale del Bargello
    A former prison turned sculpture museum: Donatello’s David, the first freestanding nude since antiquity, and early Michelangelo. Half empty, because everyone is in line at the Accademia.
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