Romefive days

Ancient ruins, the Vatican, museums and evening streets — no car, all of it on foot and by metro.

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Italy · 5 days

The whole trip in one city: five days is enough to see the ancient sites, the Vatican, and still live in the center instead of racing through it.

Day by day

Day 1 · 6 placesLanding and a first evening downtown
Fiumicino → Termini → the center
  • Fontana di Trevi
    Rome’s largest fountain grows straight out of the wall of a building — you only see it when you turn the corner. Lit at night and always open; you toss the coin right hand over left shoulder.
  • Aeroporto di Roma–Fiumicino (FCO)
    Rome’s main airport, 20 miles from the center. The Leonardo Express runs nonstop to Termini station in 32 minutes, every 15 minutes.
  • Piazza di Spagna
    The 135 steps where half of Rome sits in the evening. Sitting on them is fined now — the police watch from below, by the little boat fountain.
  • Via dei Condotti
    A thousand feet of windows from the steps down to the Corso: Bulgari, Valentino, and Antico Caffè Greco, open since 1760. Looking is free.
  • Piazza Navona
    The square keeps the shape of the ancient stadium that stood here — long, with one rounded end. Three fountains, painters and street musicians until late.
  • Via del Corso
    The city’s main walking street: a mile of straight line from Piazza del Popolo to the Vittoriano. In the evening it is all of young Rome; shops stay open until 8.
Day 2 · 8 placesAncient Rome: the Colosseum and the forums
the whole day in one quarter
  • Colosseo
    The biggest amphitheater of the ancient world: 50,000 seats, and from the upper tier you look down into the cages under the floor. Entry strictly in your half-hour slot.
  • Foro Romano
    The main square of ancient Rome: the senate house, the temples and the triumphal road all opened onto it. There is almost no shade — fill your bottle first.
  • Palatino
    The hill where the emperors had their palaces — the word “palace” comes from it. The best view of the Forum and the Circus Maximus at once, and finally some shade from the pines.
  • Circo Massimo
    A field two thousand feet long where chariots raced in front of 150,000 people. There is not much to look at, but you only get the scale by walking it.
  • Bocca della Verità
    A stone mask in the porch of Santa Maria in Cosmedin: the legend says it bites the hand of a liar. About twenty minutes of line for the photo; the church itself is quiet and empty.
  • Piazza del Campidoglio
    Michelangelo drew the whole square: the ramped staircase, the star pattern in the pavement, three palaces. Behind the right-hand one is a balcony over the entire Forum, free.
Day 3 · 7 placesThe Vatican, the castle and Trastevere
across the Tiber and back
  • Musei Vaticani
    Four miles of galleries ending at the Sistine Chapel — one ticket, and there is no separate way in. Go at opening: by noon the map gallery is shoulder to shoulder.
  • Basilica di San Pietro in Vaticano
    The largest church in Christendom: Michelangelo’s Pietà behind glass and Bernini’s bronze canopy as tall as a four-story building. Free to enter, with a security check and a dress code.
  • Cupola di San Pietro
    551 steps, the last ones along a sloping wall between the two shells of the dome. From the top you see the whole square and the Vatican gardens, which are invisible from the ground.
  • Piazza San Pietro
    An oval held by four rows of columns. Stand on the round stone by the obelisk and they line up into one — all four rows disappear.
  • Castel Sant'Angelo
    Hadrian’s mausoleum, later a fortress and a papal prison: a covered passage runs here from the Vatican along the top of the wall. There is a café on the upper terrace and a view down the Tiber.
  • Gianicolo
    The best panorama of Rome at sunset: the whole city below, the domes countable one by one. At exactly noon a cannon fires from the hill — a tradition a century and a half old.
Day 4 · 8 placesBorghese, the Pincio and Monti
a park, two galleries, old quarters
  • Galleria Borghese
    Twenty rooms, but what rooms: Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne and his Rape of Proserpina, six Caravaggios. Two hours per booking, and it is never crowded.
  • Terrazza del Pincio
    The Borghese park is the size of a small town, and at its edge is a terrace looking over Piazza del Popolo and the domes all the way to the Vatican. On the way you can take a rowboat on the pond.
  • Piazza del Popolo
    A round square with an Egyptian obelisk and two twin churches. In the left one, Santa Maria del Popolo, two Caravaggios hang in a side chapel — free to walk in.
  • Palazzo Barberini
    A palace built by three rivals — Bernini, Borromini and Maderno. Inside are Caravaggio’s Judith and Raphael’s Fornarina, and upstairs Borromini’s spiral staircase, which people come for on its own.
  • Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri
    A church Michelangelo built straight into a hall of the Baths of Diocletian — the walls are still Roman. A 150-foot bronze meridian line runs across the floor.
  • Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
    One of the city’s four great basilicas and the only one that kept its 5th-century mosaics. The ceiling is covered with the first gold brought back from the Americas.
Day 5 · 5 placesThe market, the Pantheon and the flight home
center → Termini → Fiumicino
  • Pantheon
    The one ancient building in Rome still standing whole after almost two thousand years: a concrete dome 142 feet across, still the largest without steel in it. The hole at the top has no glass — when it rains the water falls on the floor, where there are drains for it.
  • Largo di Torre Argentina
    Four temples sitting thirteen feet below street level — and this is where Caesar was killed. Since 2023 you can walk the dig on raised paths; a colony of cats lives down there.
  • Campo de' Fiori
    A morning market under the statue of Giordano Bruno, burned on this spot: vegetables, spices, dried tomatoes. By two the stalls fold up and the square goes ordinary.
  • Basilica di San Luigi dei Francesi
    Three Caravaggios in one chapel on the left, and all of it free. Come before noon: later there is a crowd at the chapel and the light goes on for a minute per coin.
  • Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
    The best ancient painting anywhere, in rooms that are nearly empty: the entire garden room of Livia’s villa moved here, plus frescoes and mosaics. Two minutes from the station — handy before the airport train.
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