Utah: Zion → BryceMoab → Arches

Across the canyon country of Utah: the slot canyons of Zion, the hoodoos of Bryce at sunrise, the arches above Moab and the plateau over the bend of the Colorado.

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Getting around

USA · 8 days

One street with a pyramid, an Eiffel Tower and a volcano on it. One night here: you land in the evening and drive east in the morning.

Day by day

Day 1 · 7 placesLanding in Las Vegas
LAS → the Strip: 15 minutes by car
  • Sphere
    A sphere as tall as a twenty-story building, covered in screens. Free from the outside, and the picture changes every few minutes.
  • Cirque du Soleil
    The evening show in Vegas. The company runs several productions in town at once and you pick one: “O” at Bellagio is staged on water, with the stage rising and sinking; “KÀ” at MGM Grand turns its stage vertical; “ONE” at Mandalay Bay is set to Michael Jackson. Buy ahead — same-day costs more and the seats are worse.
  • Casino floor · Caesars Palace
    The thing the city exists for. The floors run around the clock, admission is free, you have to be 21 to play — but people come just to look: fountains inside, Roman columns, the poker room, bars set between the tables. Caesars Palace also has the Forum Shops with the spiral escalator.
  • Harry Reid International Airport (LAS)
    Where you land and pick up the car. Three hours northeast from here and the desert turns into red walls.
  • The Strip
    The main street of the city. Walk it in the evening: a volcano, gondolas, a pyramid and an Eiffel Tower all stand in a row on the same street.
  • High Roller
    A 550-foot observation wheel. One turn takes half an hour and puts the whole Strip below you. Priciest at sunset.
Day 2 · 5 placesLas Vegas → Zion
~170 miles · 3 hr, half a day with stops
  • Petrified Sand Dunes · Snow Canyon
    Dunes that turned to stone: the waves froze as they were, and you can walk them barefoot. Twenty minutes off the highway, with a third of the crowd of the parks.
  • Grafton Ghost Town
    An abandoned settlement under red cliffs: a schoolhouse, a home, a cemetery, and nothing else for miles. They filmed Butch Cassidy here. The last two miles are dirt.
  • Jacob Hamblin Home
    A Mormon settler’s house from 1863 with nothing remodeled. Free, and the caretakers give the tour themselves.
  • Lava Tubes · Snow Canyon
    Right there, a thousand feet on: collapsed tubes in old lava that you climb down into over the rocks. Bring a flashlight — a phone won’t cut it.
  • Zion Park Boulevard
    The town’s only street: galleries, rock shops, ice cream and patios under the red walls. The park shuttle runs along it, so you can walk it one way.
Day 3 · 11 placesZion, all of it
a free shuttle runs the canyon; private cars aren’t allowed in
  • Angels Landing Trail
    The famous ridge with the chains. The last section needs a lottery permit — but the climb to Scout Lookout without one gives you the whole view.
  • Zion Canyon Visitor Center
    The shuttles up the canyon start here. Check the schedule, fill your water and decide how far you’re going today.
  • Zion Human History Museum
    Twenty minutes on who lived here before the park, and the best view of the Towers of the Virgin from the back terrace — mornings especially.
  • Court of the Patriarchs
    Three peaks with biblical names standing in a row right above the shuttle stop. Five minutes, and everyone leaves with the shot.
  • Emerald Pools Trail
    Three pools stacked one above another; the trail to the lower one runs UNDER the waterfall. The only shade in the canyon at midday.
  • Weeping Rock
    Water that took a thousand years to seep through the rock drips off the alcove straight onto the trail. Short, and close to the stop.
Day 4 · 9 placesZion → Bryce
~80 miles · 2 hr, half a day with stops
  • Navajo Loop Trail
    The only way to feel the scale is to go down into it. The Wall Street switchbacks drop between the walls, leaving a strip of sky overhead.
  • Bryce Point
    The best overlook of the whole amphitheater. Come toward evening: the sun is low and sideways, and the hoodoos throw long shadows.
  • Red Canyon Arches
    The road dives through two arched tunnels cut in red rock. Free, no line — and almost nobody stops, which is a shame.
  • Mossy Cave Trail
    The one piece of Bryce you enter from below instead of above: a grotto, a waterfall and the first hoodoos. Twenty minutes on foot, no fee.
  • Bryce Canyon Visitor Center
    The park entrance: pay for the car, pick up a map, check whether the free shuttle is running the amphitheater today. From here the road follows the whole rim.
  • Inspiration Point
    Three platforms stacked above each other. From the top one the whole amphitheater is in front of you — this is the view people come for.
Day 5 · 8 placesBryce at sunrise → Moab
~270 miles · 4 hr 30 min, all day with stops
  • Sunrise Point
    This is what you slept here for. The first light comes into the amphitheater from below and the hoodoos catch fire one after another.
  • Head of the Rocks Overlook
    From here you see all of Highway 12 at once: it drops down a bare stone dome and winds to the horizon. The most famous pullout on the road.
  • Capitol Reef Visitor Center
    The highway through the park is free; the Scenic Drive down to Gifford Homestead is not — you pay by envelope here. They’ll also tell you whether the dirt road is open after rain.
  • Gifford Homestead
    A Mormon homestead in the middle of the park that still bakes pies from its own orchard. Come before noon — by lunch they’re gone.
  • Panorama Point
    A pullout right off the highway: a hundred-mile fold in the earth’s crust visible from one spot.
  • Goosenecks Overlook
    Two hundred yards from the parking lot and the loops of Sulphur Creek canyon are under your feet. No railings — keep kids back from the edge.
Day 6 · 11 placesArches
the entrance is 5 miles from Moab, 18 miles of road inside
  • Landscape Arch · Devils Garden
    The longest arch in the world: 290 feet across and less than six feet thick at its thinnest. A slab fell off it in 1991 and the trail underneath was closed for good.
  • Delicate Arch
    The arch off the license plate. Forty-five minutes up bare slickrock with no shade — go at sunset or early, but go.
  • Main Street
    The one big street in town: jeep and rafting outfitters, shops with Native silver, coffee places and a brewery. In the evening everyone who spent the day in the parks ends up here.
  • Arches Visitor Center
    The park road starts by switchbacking up the canyon wall. At the top everything changes: red fins standing in rows to the horizon.
  • Park Avenue Viewpoint
    Rock walls stand in two rows like buildings along a street — hence the name. You can look from above or walk the bottom.
  • Courthouse Towers Viewpoint
    Three towers, each with a name: the Organ, the Sheep Rock, the Three Gossips. Five minutes, and the scale lands immediately.
Day 7 · 10 placesCanyonlands and Dead Horse
Island in the Sky is ~35 miles · 45 min
  • Mesa Arch
    A small arch on the edge of the cliff. At sunrise its underside glows from reflected light — the most photographed spot in Utah.
  • Green River Overlook
    The river, two thousand feet below, has cut the desert into three levels. There’s a twelve-site campground here too — to sleep in the park, book six months out.
  • Grand View Point
    The end of the plateau, where you see how two rivers sawed the desert into three tiers. The rim trail runs half a mile out.
  • Dead Horse Point
    The bend of the Colorado two thousand feet below. In the evening everyone who missed sunrise at Mesa Arch comes here — and they’re right to.
  • Island in the Sky Visitor Center
    The last water and the last restroom before the plateau. There is nothing for the next twenty miles, and that is literal.
  • Aztec Butte Granaries
    Ancestral Puebloan granaries tucked under a rock overhang eight hundred years ago. The climb is over bare stone, and almost nobody is up there.
Day 8 · 8 placesMoab → Grand Junction, flight home
~110 miles · 2 hr to GJT airport
  • Fisher Towers
    Rock spires six hundred feet tall with a ridge trail running to them. Highway 128 passes right by — this is a stop, not a detour.
  • Colorado National Monument · Saddlehorn Visitor Center
    The monument entrance on the Fruita side: pay for the car, and Rim Rock Drive begins — twenty-one miles along the canyon rim with overlooks all the way.
  • Grand View · Colorado NM
    The first overlook on Rim Rock Drive, just past the entrance. The whole valley from here, with the lone spire of Independence Monument in it.
  • Coke Ovens Overlook
    A row of round domes that look like coke ovens — hence the name. A short trail from the lot, with a railing.
  • Artists Point
    A platform right on the edge: Monument Canyon under your feet, and behind you the road cut into the rock by hand in the 1930s.
  • Red Canyon Overlook
    The reddest canyon in the park, and usually empty: most people turn back before it.
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